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Folding Fleshing Beam Plans


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#1 BCF

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:41 AM

Hey guys, here you go. Enjoy. I designed this and decided to make a blueprint for you all. I looked on the net for designs for something I could fold up, since this is just a weekend hobby, but couldn't find anything, so I drew it up on paper, then made this print. All the designs I'd seen in pictures required special angle cuts, which I don't have equipment for, so I wanted something you could make with a hand saw and drill.

I don't have pictures of it built on me right now, but the whole thing folds up nice under my bench. If you don't want it to fold, you can just nail the supports permanently. Also, instead of bolts and nuts, you can just use pins, which is probably better anyhow. A trashcan, or kitty litter box fits under while you're fleshing.

The whole thing can be made from a single 2x4 12 feet long and a couple 1x2 's 22 inches long each.

The fleshing beam itself gets bolted or nailed to the beam support. This isn't included in the print, because everyone seems to make them differently. Some just make from a piece of 4" diameter PVC pipe which is supposed to work real well. I haven't tried. I made my beam from a 1x4x60. I just jig sawed the nose shape, then planed it by hand into a nice cup, and sanded it smooth. I use a cheap $10 8" double handle fleshing knife, sharpen one side and square off the other to get it to work.

Crap. I can't attach the entire PDF. I will have to split into multiple small JPEGS.

Page 3, Page 4

PS. This design, hanging the beam off 2 feet from the top support will put the end of the beam 42" up from the ground. I'm 5'11" and this is perfect for me.

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#2 GSH

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:43 AM

Nice, I think I'll use it.

#3 T36yq0

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 02:23 PM

This is pretty cool. I've been needing to build one for quite some time. I don't have a garage that looks like a dungeon of death, i've got a whole house that is starting to look like that.......and the wife is NOT happy.

#4 BCF

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 08:19 AM

Here's some snapshots of the beam. I made some changes, but the dimensions are pretty much the same. I just nailed the whole thing together, and it pivots on the nails. Instead of a door hinge (4 inch hinge was wrong, so I had to improvise), I just used wood to "capture" the end of the beam support. It works well, and holds it together firmly.

Beam Unfolded:
Attached File  1354809865753.jpg   27.15KB   1 downloads

Beam Folded:
Attached File  1354809868298.jpg   23.85KB   1 downloads

Detail of locking blocks:
Attached File  1354809869056.jpg   18.06KB   1 downloads

Detail of fleshing beam:
Attached File  1354809865044.jpg   17.19KB   1 downloads

#5 BCF

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 08:35 AM

Coyote stretcher detail:
My old stretcher was more rounded and wider at the top, which I also reshaped. I didn't like how the coyotes were coming out with a really wide face, and no shoulders. I know this shape isn't how they usually look, but I borrowed the shape from a Canadian trapper. I think they look better, but as you can see from how clean the wood is, I haven't tried it yet. The support braces at the bottom are just the pieces of wood sawn from the nose. Nailed them up, and use a C'clamp or a nail once the coyote is up on it. I use a staple gun in a few spots to hold the coyote on the stretcher. Anyhow, might give some of you ideas.
Attached File  1354809866711.jpg   18.11KB   1 downloads

Add a fresh coyote. Killed him with my Rock River Arms PPR AR as he came into my Long Valley hand call last weekend out hunting alone in the desert. Setup on a small hill overlooking an intersection where 3 washes meet. Looked too good to pass up a stand, and it was...A little small, but nice fur. I called for about 10 seconds and waited. I don't like to call for a long time by myself, because it just seems to make them zero in on my position a little too well. I like them to come in close, but confused. Also, it gives me time to setup for the shot. About 3 minutes later he comes trotting up. I woof him to a stop right in front of me and shoot him off the sticks at only about 75 yards. Wish I had the shotgun, but the hole from the 40gr Fiocchi V-max stitched up fine. I hate sewing. Once again, drive 5 hours round-trip, hunt for 10 minutes, kill a coyote, and home for lunch. Kind of ridiculous, which is why I made another fur stretcher last night. I will make a couple more when I get around to it.
Attached File  1353786517408.jpg   30.53KB   0 downloads

Tommy is growing up, and trying camoflauge himself as Santa to steal food off the table. Not working real well.
Attached File  1354809869600.jpg   12.33KB   0 downloads

#6 lif2fsh

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 07:52 PM

I use a cheap $10 8" double handle fleshing knife, sharpen one side and square off the other to get it to work.
I find fleshing very difficult do you use the sharp side the most or the square?

#7 BCF

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 10:51 AM

I also use a cheapy, but I had to file it to get it to work. I use almost exclusively the dull side. You have to figure out just the right amount and angle to push. I push pretty hard. You're basically push/peeling that thin layer off. Start from the face and work down. Make sure to first brush the fur side real good, then feel with your hands because any dirt, dy blood, or burrs will result in holes when fleshing.

Well, I'm still a beginner and not real good to answer your question. There's a canadian trapper on youtube I learned everything from. Might do a search for. Coyote pelt fleshing and see his videos. He fleshes a coyote perfectly in under 10 minutes with a similar setup to mine. Next time I go visit family up there hope I can find a straight blade fleshing knife. Seems to work really well.




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