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Gamo Hunter Extreme - Questions


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#1 Bone

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 04:27 PM

I recently got into the springers again. I'm still scratching my head as to why when I have PCP's that are awesome. 26 years ago I had a nice R1 that I kept for many years and never had a problem. I felt good about spending the money even though it was high It was a nice gun. I never took it apart so can't say about weather it had any major burr problems. Recently I bought one of those damn Gamo Hunter Extremes. I was sorry right off the bat. I took it out before taking it apart and the first shot with a 32 grain pellet and my chrony showed 710 fps. Cool I thought until the next round leisurely passing the chorny at 550 fps. What? I thought well she is new so shoot 50 pellets through it and check it again. Now it was under 500 fps and erratic.So I called emailed Gamo and they are worthless. They just want you to play that game of sending the airgun back and forth and they still would not of fixed it right. If they are pushing them out the door like that then I need to fix it myself. They only sell parts to Firearm dealers. I told them that was stupid and I was told because of safety reasons. They said someone might hurt themselves removing the mainspring. I responded saying that information is safety and by choosing not to help us out is being irresponsible. I also said that using airguns are dangerous in general and the fact of people misusing them can be much more dangerous. Anyway I got nowhere and sense I'm a machinist I will make my own parts.So after tearing into it I found the problems and all I got to say is that "Gamo sucks". What a poorly made airgun. The seal was on e of the worst I have seen. Heavy duty burrs ripping the airgun apart. I have problems in other airguns as well so Gamo is not the only one screwing people over. I have a RWS 350 that was horrible. I tuned it and now it shoots great. My point is that we should not have to do this. Very poor workmanship! So there's not much out there as far as help and that's why I have to ask some questions. 1. What material is best for the seal to made from?2. How much interference is needed to maintain a good seal but at the same time not to much as to add drag to the action. In other words if the bore is 1.146 how big should be the outside diameter of the seal?3. I noticed that the positive stop for the scope mount is already elongated and pushing the metal into the spring chamber. It is like a slot instead of a true hole. Do you think making it round and to the size of the scope mount pin would help?4. The trigger is horrible and the sheet metal housing is so crooked that I had to straighten it back but there is still a mass of slop and so I will try and fix that as well. I have the trigger upgrade but the problem is much deeper. Any ideas here?5. The sleeve (bull look alike) on the barrel is already bowing and then I seen that they have a plastic bottom butting up to the receiver. Anybody make a screw on muzzle brake for this?6. Mainspring replacement? Is there one for it? If not I can get a spring made.7. Rear spring guide was galled on the end of it. Looks like the spring has been smacking it. I'm thinking of making it a full ball on the end. Any suggestions?I did not do enough homework on this airgun and should have before buying it. Now I will make do, figure it out and see what I can do with it.Any help would be appreciated.ThanksTerry - BonePS - When I get done I will post pictures of what I found after 50 shots and new right out of the box.

#2 crazyhorse

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Posted 28 April 2012 - 04:37 PM

There are a couple guys here that can advise you on your springer..I only own one and it is a Paul Watts R9 .20 cal with a custom barrel and shroud.....but no power mods,,real sweet trigger though..Posted ImagePosted Image

#3 Bone

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 09:19 AM

From what I read the R9 is one of the nicer air guns out of the box. The trigger on this Extreme is so sloppy and hard to pull. It creeps and stops at several different places. I have taken it apart and the design of it is 100 year old technology. It reminds me of a 10 dollar BB gun trigger or worse. Not sure if I will build the complete trigger assembly or try and shim the slop out of this stock one. And polish the internal trigger parts which is a lot of the problem. If I have to build a new trigger I might just turn this into a Bullpup and drop some of the weight. Your R9 is a very nice looking air gun as well. Makes me want to get one in the future.Thanks!

#4 Jeff213

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 06:55 PM

I owned 1 gamo airgun and that was enough for me. I will never buy another gamo. I have also had problelms with a couple of Diana (most RWS are actually diana) springers in the past and I am no machinist so I have a harder time fixing things myself when parts arent easily available. Right now I have an RWS 94 which is actually a spanish made Cometa Fenix 400. It is a power house, putting out around 970 fps with lead pellets when advertised at 1000 fps, and producing good groups as well. Not all spanish made guns are garbage, but the gamos that I have seen so far have been. Their advertised velocities in the 15-1600 fps range doesn't help their image much either in my opinion.

#5 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 08:49 AM

Bone, Sorry to hear about your Gamo woes. I'm not a fan of theirs either. I personally feel that their product is hype and that if almost always under-performs. I personally won't be able to answer those questions since I don't know enough about the internals of springers yet, however, I would highly recommend that you join the "Gateway to Airguns" forum. There are guys on that site that build custom parts and air guns and I'm sure they would easily be able to tell you the information you are looking for. There are a few members on the GTA site that are brilliant with their knowledge of airguns past, present and what is around the corner. I hope you are able to get that thing shooting like it should be. Best of luck.

#6 Bone

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 09:55 AM

Thanks guys for the information. I actually did post this up on the GTA site and getting some help there. I don't like to slam any company but when the only option they have for you is to send it back and try to fix it which cost you shipping, seems like another marketing scheme to make more money on repairs. The biggest problem is that they send them out this way how can I trust them to even fix it right with the removal of burrs and hone again. They would not fix it the way it should be no matter what. So that is why I decided not to send it back. I'm thinking it can be a good airgun but there is some work involved for sure. I'm hoping when I hone it that piston area is not to bad. The top hat is so sloppy that when it is cocked the spring hits the top of the guide and is galling it. It does that on both sides of the spring. So when cocking it hits those areas and I can actually fill it when cocking it. I didn't know what is was until I took it apart. So I need to make a new top hat and also the back guide. Keeping that spring straight is top priority to me. Have either of you done anything about the way the barrel is shimmed with those pressure washers? Mine where very sharp and a little burry too, I was thinking of making teflon replacements or S/S washers. Any suggestions?I have the .25 cal and looking for reliability and about 30 fpe. Which I think I can get. I'm going to make the new top hat with a dampener and see how that works as well. It won't be as heavy either because of it. Not sure if it will work but am going to try. Thanks again guys.

#7 mackeralboy

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Posted 30 April 2012 - 08:06 PM

Bone I'm not as up as I use to be on all of the goings on in the Airgun world but last I heard Gamo had bought up BSA a couple of years ago and the Hunter Extreme was actually made in the UK. I'd be interested to see where your gun says it was manufactured. As far as the tuning goes Jim Maccarri is the guy to go to for seals and springs for springer airguns.His website is http://www.airrifleh...page/251327.htmI used some of his stuff to tune up a Crosman Quest 800 that I had bought a while back and what a difference it made.I did buy a used Gamo 1250 Hunter a while back that had been tuned by this guy who use to have a website and went by the name Rich in Mich. I don't know what the guy did to this gun but it is one sweet shooter. One thing he did do was he converted it to .22cal from .177 and the thing puts out some serious power. I took out a jack rabbit with it at 75 yards no problem. What ever you do don't bring up his name over at GTA not unless you want to be black listed. Apprently one of the head hanchos over there got into a pissing match with the guy and they blot out any reference to him now on their site.One spring gun I'm interested to hear more about is the new Crosman MAV 77. It looks like an exact copy of an Air Arms TX200. I'm guessing it is the Old Chinese BAM 40 that use to be sold here in the states.

#8 Bone

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 10:16 AM

I have several springers of different makes and they all need attention and then they shoot ok. It's just the way it's done that bugs me. Like a trigger assembly still being made from sheet metal and being bent as all get out, Hand ground slots to get the trigger pins to mount with big burrs hanging on each cut, very sloppy parts with major creep and a total uncertainty of when through out its travels it will fire! I didn't pay 500 for mine and only paid 300 but it still is a joke. Then my airgun is totally burred and the piston destroyed in 50 rounds. Out of spite because I do not trust sending anything to a company that would send it out to the public this way to begin with, tells me, no way in hell! I'll get it back the same way. I knew I could deal with it and turn it into a project gun. I hate to do that right off the bat with a brand new airgun but if I wanted to keep that power plant to play with I felt it was best for me to just keep it and do it myself. So I hope to make a really nice gun out of it. I'm starting with the insides and going to through every single piece including honing it, building a dampening system, better guides, polishing and possibly porting. I have lots of work ahead and headed down a few new roads so I'm sure before it's all over I may have done something else. :504:

#9 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 01 May 2012 - 10:26 AM

Bone, I saw your posts over on the GTA and it looked like you were getting some good information. I'm glad the members over there were able to help you out some. I know how frustrating it is to have to start fixing a brand new gun. It is a real shame that they send them out of the factory like that when an extra 5 to 10 minutes at the factory would probably take care of all of those issues. I hope you are able to get it shooting and firing properly again and look forward to the updates. :504:

#10 Bone

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 06:37 PM

I found out why the top hat is so sloppy. Because when they punch out the slot they deform the tube .040 (more then a 1/32 in layman's terms) and more then a 1/16 or an inch in the width of the slot. You can see a big dip when you look from the side but I measured the inside diameter properly to see for sure. There are a multitude of ways to stop this from happenning and no reason why it should have unless their procedure is bad. The tooling can be made with an insert to prevent that from happening. Or if they wanted to do it that way they could of straighten it after and before heat treat. The only way to fix it is to heat it up red hot and cool it slow. Fix and then heat it up and heat treat it again. I can heat treat it but my method is either hard, harder or soft. I learned a long time ago that if you want the heat treatment to be correct there is much more to it then just dipping a red hot part into oil or water. I might try and just soften the center of the slot area only. I could try that first and see. The problem with getting it red hot and doing it myself is that the part is to size and need to be really careful on how it's handled as well. I can see it now...........making another tube lol




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