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Buying a Benjamin Titan GP Nitro Piston


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#1 IamChase

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:27 AM

So after much deliberation and contemplation I have decided that this is the pellet rifle that I want to begin with: http://www.pyramydai..._Air_Rifle/2603So now that I've decided this, now I need to figure out which ammo to buy. I figured it would save me some time and $$ (not sure which one is more important :yahoo: ) and ask you guys if you have ever messed around with this rifle, and which ammo worked best for you?Any insight would be much appreciated! Thanks!

#2 Brant

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:41 AM

From another forum a guy tested 8 pellets in it and these were the best. A couple of other posters agreed with those pellets. They also said the gun takes about 100 shots to break-in.RWS 14.2 gr. Super-H-Pointshttp://www.pyramydai...point_250ct/792http://www.network54...a...n GP (pics)

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#3 IamChase

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:45 AM

Thank you very much! The wealth of knowledge here astounds me, thank you very much for the quick response!

#4 Brant

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:58 AM

You will need a "springer tough" scope for that gun. It should give the squirrels hell.

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#5 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:22 AM

That's a nice first .22 springer there. Congrats on making a good choice! :yahoo: After you get used to shooting it, you'll most likely want to replace that fixed 4x32 scope that it comes with, with a 3-9x40 Adjustable Objective scope. CenterPoint Optics makes one and you can pick them up at your local Wally World for around $50 or so dollars. They are built for the double recoil of spring air rifles and they come with the Weaver mounts included. I have a 3-9x40AO CenterPoint Optics scope on my Trail NP XL 1100 and it works well enough for that gun. It's helped me take out my first 5 ground squirrels when I started into air guns. Another reason you'll want to switch out the scope is that the 4x32 scopes rarelyl have mildots on them and you'll want a mildot scope for those farther out shots due to the air rifles curvey trajectory. You'll have to post some photos once you get it and especially post your hunts for us to see! :)

#6 screwwork

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:14 AM

I would try a few different pellets to see which pellets work the best with your gun.I have a Beeman RS-2 (22 cal) it likes the RWS Superpiont and Crossman hunting pellets.RWS Superpoint is really good at 30yrds and Crossman is right behind them.I hit the bottle cap consistently at 30yrds with both RWS and Crossman pellets.The Beaman Pellets have a less consistent groups and drop a lot more thru my gun?? Bummer1I dont really get serious when plicking/target practice in the back yard.I wouldn't try beyond 60yrds with my gun without a lot more practice and a mill dot type scope. I like the Crossman pellets for general plinking and the RWS SP pellets for shooting at game.I ended up changing the scope to a Redhead pursuit 4-16x 40, it is much better than the factory scope and beefed up scope mount. Good luck and happy shooting.

#7 IamChase

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:45 AM

That's a nice first .22 springer there. Congrats on making a good choice! :rolleyes: After you get used to shooting it, you'll most likely want to replace that fixed 4x32 scope that it comes with, with a 3-9x40 Adjustable Objective scope. CenterPoint Optics makes one and you can pick them up at your local Wally World for around $50 or so dollars. They are built for the double recoil of spring air rifles and they come with the Weaver mounts included. I have a 3-9x40AO CenterPoint Optics scope on my Trail NP XL 1100 and it works well enough for that gun. It's helped me take out my first 5 ground squirrels when I started into air guns. Another reason you'll want to switch out the scope is that the 4x32 scopes rarelyl have mildots on them and you'll want a mildot scope for those farther out shots due to the air rifles curvey trajectory. You'll have to post some photos once you get it and especially post your hunts for us to see! :)

Hopefully some of those hunts will be with you :)

#8 IamChase

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:56 AM

Thanks everyone for the advice.One more question (for the time being):Would it help break in the rifle if I dry shot it, or are you not supposed to dry fire air rifles?

#9 Brant

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:06 AM

Never dry fire a spring gun.

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#10 IamChase

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:20 AM

Alrighty, thanks =D

#11 ShooterJohn

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:59 AM

Just buy some cheap pellets and make yourself the silent pellet trap that's posted at the top of this forum. That way you break in the gun and you can shoot it in the house and get used to firing it. You can never have too much practice.

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#12 mackeralboy

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:18 PM

Chase,Congratulation on your purchase. All of these guys have given you great advice. As you can tell there is a wealth of information amongst the members of this site that will help you amongst other things with your learning curve on shooting, hunting and taking care of your airguns. One more word of advice, when you do get your new airgun, buy some Blue locktite. Put the locktite onto all of the screws that mount the scope onto the rings, the screws that mount the rings onto the reciever and /or base, and all of the screws that mount the reciever to the stock. One of the problems with a springer type airgun is that the recoil of the piston slamming home in the reciever can jar any and all of these screws loose. Also many times the screws don't get tightened down all the way at the factory. Putting some Blue locktite on the screws will keep them from rattling loose. Be careful not to over thighten the screws and strip them, exspecially the receiver stock screws. You just want them snug. Many of us on this forum have had an airgun drive us nuts because it was grouping all over the place. It was only after a laborious episode of trial and error that we figured out that it was a loose screw(s) that was the root of our problem. Enjoy and I look forward to hearing how the new Air rifle works out for you.Mc

#13 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 06:27 PM

Thanks everyone for the advice.One more question (for the time being):Would it help break in the rifle if I dry shot it, or are you not supposed to dry fire air rifles?

Like everyone has mentioned, never dry fire a spring/nitro-piston air rifle. You will wreck your gun real quick by doing that. Mackeralboy brought out an excellent point in making sure to use Loctite 242 on all of the screws for the scope mount, rings, and main fasteners for keep the action in the stock. I've done that on both my Gamo Whisper and Benji Trail NP XL. It really helps hold those fasterners in there tight while that air rifle does the double recoil mambo. They are also right about purchasing some cheap pellets to shoot through it to break it in. However (and this is just something I tend to do), if you want to break it in faster, one thing you can do is to get some J & B Bore Paste, a .22 caliber Nylon cleaning brush (I specify Nylon because you never want to run a metal cleaning brush down an air rifle barrel, you'll screw it up really fast that way and have an expensive piece of junk on your hands :smiley_kewlpics: ) and the cleaning rod to attach the cleaning brush to. Also get some cleaning patches, jag or loop and Hoppes #9. Then do the following:1. Coat the nylon brush with the bore paste and from the breech end, push the brush up and down the barrel about 15 to 20 times (up and down strokes). What this does is polish out the interior of the barrel, helps to smooth out any of the burrs or other imperfections that might be in the barrel, and cleans a bunch of the factory gunk that is left in the barrel from manufacturing. 2. Then use a cleaning patch with some Hoppes #9 on a loop attachement on the cleaning rod and push it through. Only do that once (always start fromt he breech end of the barrel and don't pull it back through). 3. Then keep running clean patches down the barrel until they finally come out clean. After that your barrel should be sparkling clean and it saves you at least 250 to 1000 pellets. I did this to my Benjamin Trail NP XL 1100 and it not only broke it in faster, but it is more accurate now and the CPHP's I shoot out of it average about 930 FPS. The above steps are not necessary, but it does really help (IMHO). :signgreatreport3kg:

#14 bbarnhouse

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:29 AM

Thanks to everyone here that offers their time and advise, im brandon iv reqd through this thread many times to get what i need to break my air rifle (benjamin titan) asap. I fired one shot and was concerned about neighbors... so iv been drooling for the past 3 days! Iv got the replacement crossman scope sugested at waliworld!! Very impressed im going to need different rings and assume i should wait till the rifle is broken in to attach it? How many rounds would that be? For my main concern... i have not heen able to find the paste to smooth out the imperfections, i have so far.... hopps9 solvent, hoppes bore gell ( elite) choke tube gun grease for the break lever(?).... and hoppes elite gun oil which iv read from a different post is a big no no unless i want a very expensive paperweight for an office i dont have! I also have a j. Dewey nylon coated .22 cal. Cleaning rod and cotton patches.... can i use the bore gell instead of the paste mentioned above? Whats the next suggested step?

Thanks again for all you guzy's help!!!!

-B

#15 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:30 PM

bbarnhouse, Welcome to the CPC Forum. :)

 

 It typically takes around 250 to 500 pellets to be shot through the air rifle before the parts start to wear a little and function a little more smoothly. I would figure shooting a whole 500 count tin of Crosman Premier Hollow Points through your rifle before actually attempting to sight the air rifle in. The loudness of the rifle should lower a little after 3 to 5 shots are fired out of the rifle. Sometimes there are residual oils from the manufacturing process still in the chamber and barrel and this will cause the air rifle to fire louder and faster than it will after these lubricants burn off.

 

 For the J&B Bore Paste, I know you can purchase it from Pyramyd Air dot com for sure, along with any other airgun items you might need or want. Make sure if you use a bore brush that it is a nylon bore brush. For the most part, using a small amount of Hoppes #9 and a cleaning patch for a couple of passes down the barrel and then consecutive dry cleaning patches until they come out pretty clean will suffice when cleaning your barrel.

 

 Please be sure to not get any grease or oil down into the chamber or barrel as it can ignite when fired and will end up either in an injury or your air rifle being ruined. Be safe and have fun.



#16 bbarnhouse

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 01:50 PM

Ok iv got the barrel clean and refastened the screws including bipod ones with blue licklite... however i diddnt clean the screws w anything before application an dinstallment.... will this make a big difference in the final result? Thanks for yalls help!

#17 Air Rifle Hunter

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 03:29 PM

I would have cleaned off the threads with a clean cloth and then applied the Loctite, but it may adhere anyway. You'll just have to wait and see. Make sure you let it dry for no less than 24 hours so that it has time to fully harden.
 
 As far as having a bipod on a break-barrel air rifle... I don't think that is such a great idea. The double recoil of the spring or nitro-piston will wreck havoc on your accuracy (that is my experience though, others may have some information too). I would stick to either resting it on your hand/palm or on shooting bags.




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