Buying a Benjamin Titan GP Nitro Piston
Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:27 AM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:41 AM
I'm an airgunholic
Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:45 AM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:58 AM
I'm an airgunholic
Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:22 AM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:14 AM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:45 AM
Hopefully some of those hunts will be with you
That's a nice first .22 springer there. Congrats on making a good choice! After you get used to shooting it, you'll most likely want to replace that fixed 4x32 scope that it comes with, with a 3-9x40 Adjustable Objective scope. CenterPoint Optics makes one and you can pick them up at your local Wally World for around $50 or so dollars. They are built for the double recoil of spring air rifles and they come with the Weaver mounts included. I have a 3-9x40AO CenterPoint Optics scope on my Trail NP XL 1100 and it works well enough for that gun. It's helped me take out my first 5 ground squirrels when I started into air guns. Another reason you'll want to switch out the scope is that the 4x32 scopes rarelyl have mildots on them and you'll want a mildot scope for those farther out shots due to the air rifles curvey trajectory. You'll have to post some photos once you get it and especially post your hunts for us to see!
Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:56 AM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 11:59 AM
Time waits for no one--
treasure every moment you have.
Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:18 PM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 06:27 PM
Like everyone has mentioned, never dry fire a spring/nitro-piston air rifle. You will wreck your gun real quick by doing that. Mackeralboy brought out an excellent point in making sure to use Loctite 242 on all of the screws for the scope mount, rings, and main fasteners for keep the action in the stock. I've done that on both my Gamo Whisper and Benji Trail NP XL. It really helps hold those fasterners in there tight while that air rifle does the double recoil mambo. They are also right about purchasing some cheap pellets to shoot through it to break it in. However (and this is just something I tend to do), if you want to break it in faster, one thing you can do is to get some J & B Bore Paste, a .22 caliber Nylon cleaning brush (I specify Nylon because you never want to run a metal cleaning brush down an air rifle barrel, you'll screw it up really fast that way and have an expensive piece of junk on your hands ) and the cleaning rod to attach the cleaning brush to. Also get some cleaning patches, jag or loop and Hoppes #9. Then do the following:1. Coat the nylon brush with the bore paste and from the breech end, push the brush up and down the barrel about 15 to 20 times (up and down strokes). What this does is polish out the interior of the barrel, helps to smooth out any of the burrs or other imperfections that might be in the barrel, and cleans a bunch of the factory gunk that is left in the barrel from manufacturing. 2. Then use a cleaning patch with some Hoppes #9 on a loop attachement on the cleaning rod and push it through. Only do that once (always start fromt he breech end of the barrel and don't pull it back through). 3. Then keep running clean patches down the barrel until they finally come out clean. After that your barrel should be sparkling clean and it saves you at least 250 to 1000 pellets. I did this to my Benjamin Trail NP XL 1100 and it not only broke it in faster, but it is more accurate now and the CPHP's I shoot out of it average about 930 FPS. The above steps are not necessary, but it does really help (IMHO).
Thanks everyone for the advice.One more question (for the time being):Would it help break in the rifle if I dry shot it, or are you not supposed to dry fire air rifles?
Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:29 AM
Thanks again for all you guzy's help!!!!
Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:30 PM
bbarnhouse, Welcome to the CPC Forum.
It typically takes around 250 to 500 pellets to be shot through the air rifle before the parts start to wear a little and function a little more smoothly. I would figure shooting a whole 500 count tin of Crosman Premier Hollow Points through your rifle before actually attempting to sight the air rifle in. The loudness of the rifle should lower a little after 3 to 5 shots are fired out of the rifle. Sometimes there are residual oils from the manufacturing process still in the chamber and barrel and this will cause the air rifle to fire louder and faster than it will after these lubricants burn off.
For the J&B Bore Paste, I know you can purchase it from Pyramyd Air dot com for sure, along with any other airgun items you might need or want. Make sure if you use a bore brush that it is a nylon bore brush. For the most part, using a small amount of Hoppes #9 and a cleaning patch for a couple of passes down the barrel and then consecutive dry cleaning patches until they come out pretty clean will suffice when cleaning your barrel.
Please be sure to not get any grease or oil down into the chamber or barrel as it can ignite when fired and will end up either in an injury or your air rifle being ruined. Be safe and have fun.
Posted 08 January 2013 - 01:50 PM
Posted 08 January 2013 - 03:29 PM
As far as having a bipod on a break-barrel air rifle... I don't think that is such a great idea. The double recoil of the spring or nitro-piston will wreck havoc on your accuracy (that is my experience though, others may have some information too). I would stick to either resting it on your hand/palm or on shooting bags.
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