Nosler 40 gr. lead free bt bullet
Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:19 PM
Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:37 PM
Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:57 PM
Posted 05 December 2011 - 09:32 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 07:40 AM
Yep, exactly, and is why I (& everyone else) have to use the non lead for the times we hunt the buzzard zone. Fortunatelyl, I also hunt (lead) areas.
I hate non lead bullet too, but I don't have much choice, the non-lead bang is not going away
For me, only as a last resort &/or absoultely HAVE to. Again, "mostly" due to what they did to us. Besides, in the smaller 224 cal with faster twists for example, they are a pain in the arzz to get them to shoot "accurately", especially consistently. Near impossible would be more correct. They do not get (too much/lol) of my $$.
^^^ you don't like to shoot Barnes?
Posted 06 December 2011 - 04:29 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:38 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 06:08 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 08:00 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 08:47 PM
Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:31 PM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:54 AM
What is the twist rate on your 223 Rem?I think Barnes is the only lead free bullet manufacturer that makes 224 cal bullets over 40 gr.Even with lead bullets I like the way 55 gr bullets put down coyotes better than the 50 gr and smaller bullets do.If your rifle has a 1-9" twist or faster barrel I would try the Barnes 55 gr MPG bullet, they are basically a 55 gr Varmint Grenade. I have killed a fair amount of coyotes with the Barnes 55 gr MPG bullet out of my 223's and my 1-8" twist 22-250 and they did a good job.For the guys that have to shoot lead free bullets at coyotes and they are going to buy a rifle, I would recommend buying a 243 so you can shoot the 55 gr or 62 gr lead free bullets instead of the 35 gr to 40 gr bullets.
Sorry, I'm shooting 223
Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:14 AM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:55 AM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:51 PM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 01:48 PM
This is exactly why I don't like hearing about people owning chronographs. They will use it to check the speed and then simply adjust their scopes for their 300-500 yard shots without ever firing a shot that far. Knowing where the bullet is "supposed to hit" does not mean that their particular bullet will stabilize or even group at that range. It also does not mean that the individual has the ability to shoot that far!!! One should never take a shot any farther than they have checked themselves and that exact load previously. In other words, if you have never shot that load at 300 yards on paper to see how it performs, you damn sure should not be shooting it that far at a live animal just because your bullet drop table tells you where it "should" hit. Yeah, it may drop 7" at 300 yards, but without ever shooting it and knowing, it may also be hitting 6" to the left one shot and 4" right the next.Just to be clear, it is not that I have anything against the machine or those that use them. It is just that in the hands of 99.9% of the people that own them it is improperly used so as to eliminate any kind of actual skill, practice, and old fashioned proof positive shooting. And before you guys get too upset, yes, I know some of you do actually do it the right way. But most don't.........
So, while going by pressure signs when working up a load is ABSOLUTELY correct, one will never know for sure what velocity (& bullet drop) they are getting until chronopraphed. Of course targets @ various distances will work for bullet drop, but how many folks REALLY do that? Yes, some of us do, but not many.
Posted 07 December 2011 - 04:30 PM
Posted 07 December 2011 - 06:00 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:02 AM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:01 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:51 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:54 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:29 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:47 PM
Posted 08 December 2011 - 09:50 PM
Nobody's knocking them, just simply stating that a vast majority of people would be better off learning to shoot better rather than learning how fast a bullet is traveling. I did say they do have there place for a select few, but for almost every hunter who has ever pulled the trigger, 200-300 fps even, will make little difference worth noting. And way too many rely upon the speed alone as being a source of pressure. Not so. Just saying that WHERE you hit is much more important than how fast it is being hit. And way too many worry more about the wrong one. Not saying anyone in particular does, but one trip to a public range with your ears open will tell you the sad truth that most shooters (and reloaders) are more concerned how fast they are shooting and not how WELL they are shooting. One should learn to shoot first. Then learn to reload. Then worry about speed and shot to shot consistency. Sadly, most don't do this. That's all I'm saying.
I wouldn't knock one if you haven't used one.
Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:37 AM
Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:20 AM
Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:27 AM
Amen.And I agree with most of what you said.Unfortunately, even less people out there that call themselves reloaders can identify pressure signs on a fired case although they think they can. A flattened primer can be caused by excessive headspace, a tough bolt lift by a little softer brass etc. lots of variables. As stated, a chronograph will help let you know what's going on. A flattened primer and tough bolt lift on a 22-250 shooting 3200 fps is usually not a pressure problem...but for a guy just shooting and evaluating his brass, he probably thinks he has a laser on his hands.
but for almost every hunter who has ever pulled the trigger, 200-300 fps even, will make little difference worth noting. One should learn to shoot first. Then learn to reload.
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