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gun safe question


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#31 cptnmatt

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 05:36 AM

Sturdy also has a LIFETIME warranty on all thier safes...Matt

#32 lilwes278

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 06:55 PM

Warranty protection is BS because unless you buy a safe made locally, the cost to ship it back to the Mfr is insane.

Very, very true.

#33 Stan

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 09:46 PM

Nothing less than an AMSEC http://www.amsecusa.com/The piece you were asking about that locks the safe if the lock is punched is called a Relocker I'm a little biased as a locksmith get a BF rated safe if you can funny most people dodn't want to spend much on what protects at least 15 grand in guns and I'm sure that's SJ small safe :signlol2iu:

#34 homemade

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Posted 26 March 2010 - 04:15 PM

Ya its kinda like those people that buy a 700 dollar gun put 500 dollar scope on it then buy a case of the cheapest ammo they can find and wonder why the gun dont shoot well.

#35 Stan

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Posted 26 March 2010 - 11:47 PM

YepAnd the best part about the cheap gun safes just grab a 6 in hole saw and have at the top and lift out your pickYes the door is harder and thicker but think about it how thick is the body of that 500.00 safe that holds 30 guns :wedgie[1]:

#36 Frank

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 07:30 AM

So, mtn dog, what have you decided on, if anything yet?While I certainly am not aware of all the safes out there, I do like my 2nd safe better than any other that I have looked at. It is a LIBERTY safe made in Utah. They will put other names on the outside of the door, such as "Remington" or whatever, but you can see the label on the inside as to who it is made by. Mine is approx 700 lbs empty. Now, if you could get one like Shooter John's monster, that may be the best of all? LOL It sure sounds like it anyhow.Nothing will stop a real and/or determined thief, however, have you ever watched the Dummest Criminal show on tv? That shows what most criminals are really like. Not usually the sharpest knife in the drawer in other words. Usually!!Frank

#37 A17Shooter

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 11:42 AM

2008 Dangerous Weapons Control Law, Firearms Safety DevicesApproved Firearms Safety Devices Compability ChartJust in case you want to research what CA law holds you to, here are some starting points. I won't even try to explain it, except to say that if you use a device that is not approved by CA and it results in your firearm being misused, you are in deep do-do.A retired firefighter, who is also a safe expert, told me that none of the gun safes approved by CA protected the weapons during the Oakland hills fire. When he opened the safes for people, all the rifle stocks had been burned to ashes. You can make your own guess about what happened to the steel parts.

#38 Canis mortuus

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:16 PM

My dream, as far as gun safes go, would be to have a "vault room" in the middle of the house, no access to outside except through this...Posted ImageI could also do all me reloading in there and it would obviously be safe storage for the guns, ammo and all my fishing gear too. I'd say a 20 x 20 room might be big enough...(like I said, we can dream).

#39 Karl

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Posted 28 May 2010 - 02:05 PM

If you are going to do that you might as well make it a safe room. Fold out bed and survival supplies for a few days. Don't forget ventilation.My parents have one. Door should open in. Karl

#40 imasam

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Posted 28 August 2010 - 07:30 PM

Oh.... Here i go again.. I have a big safe... 7ft tall. Had it custom made.. I keep my fishing reels and rifles, pistols, range finder and some expensive fishing poles in there....I inserted a small interior fire safe, for a CD records of the stuff in my house and the safe.No money or jewelry...in the safe Important stuff....only..I put it in the corner of my garage.... I built it into the corner wt 2 layers of 5/8 green board around it..Fire proof stuff... Spend money in getting a good lock and thick front.. But beware... somebody here said 7 Gauge wall.. Well that that may mean that you have wall 1/8" thick or less steel plate for walls that isn't much.... I can cut a two foot hole thru those with my makita grinder in about ten minutes... That is why i built it into the corner.. Bolted it down... It will take somebody some time to disassemble the dry wall and corner wall to cut into the safe.... all you can do is slow them down.... You can't stop someone who really wants your guns...The fire x drywall adds fire protection.. the safe is near the garage door where hopefully the firemen will open it and protect my valuables first..You can stop the neighborhood kid or the druggie from quickly taking your guns and stuff.... but you can't stop the professionals.... And speaking of professionals... the insurance co... limits your claim to gun replacement to $500... that is unless you have additional insurance listing and covering each gun separately...YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY MORE for this... That is why i added the 5/8 fire wall in case of fire i am safe... Theft... well the quickie is covered the professional.. can't stop him... but what are the chances of a pro spending time going after a few guns.. Not wort it to him..If you spend big money you can get a safe that has cement in the walls... but we are talking bigger money....It would be easier to build a safe in the concrete floor.. with a thick top Just using the door of the cheaper safes... if you feel that threatened..

#41 goosebrown

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 05:32 AM

"the insurance co... limits your claim to gun replacement to $500... that is unless you have additional insurance listing and covering each gun separately..."Being a home adjuster for Farmer's Insurance in a previous lifetime, that isn't exactly correct. Each state is different and each class of policy is different. You do need to check what your personal policy says (If I remember that is in section III of most policies) and if you don't have coverage, you can get a rider for the policy from your agent that usually is damned cheap, sometimes on the order of $20 a year. Worth looking at in the very least.General info on insurance? TAKE PICTURES OF EVERYTHING YOU OWN OR MIGHT WANT TO CLAIM. Get serial numbers and model numbers. Do a walk through with a video camera once a year. Keep your records on what you own off site. Don't care if your safe is fireproof, keep it off site. If you have expensive things keep the manuals off site if you don't need them, they can act as proof of ownership in an emergency. Your house is generally covered in a way that the insurance company has to prove the value and if you dispute they have to show cause and you can negotiate and they have to get you back to the state you were in with the house. For your contents though YOU have to PROVE what you had and establish value. As a group we were good and honest and tried to bend over backwards to help customers, but if we didn't have proof you had something, we had to deny money for it. If you have video and stills of your stuff, the adjuster can use that to show their bosses, who are rated on reducing costs, that you are entitled to settlement.

#42 mtn dog

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:42 AM

Thanks for that solid insider advice. You would hate to need that proof and not have it because you never got around to taking some pictures and jotting down serial numbers.

#43 Old timer

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 08:10 AM

:roflmao3[1]:

#44 goosebrown

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 01:27 PM

We saw it all the time and it was sad. People have so much crap today and they don't keep receipts and manuals. Really was sad to tell them that you couldn't pay out on a XXXXXXX because you had no idea it was there or not when the fire happened. Most folks were really honest, but about 15% were padding their claims with little odds and ends. Not worth worrying about. But 5% or so, they had flatscreen TVs that turned to dust without a trace, no manuals, no receipts, paid cash so no credit card bills. Got it yesterday... really... Nope... no record of it. I want my $2k...Anyway. Take pics. Lots of pics. Read the section on personal property and if there are exclusions then get them tended to with riders or supplements.Wine collections. Keep a record of what you have. If there is just a bunch of melted glass, you are likely going to get a replacement case of two buck chuck for your Chateau Latour...BTW, take a pic OF the serial number. Nothing says that is MINE better than that.

#45 imasam

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 09:21 PM

In general a good safe keeps the kids out of your guns.... . If the local druggie comes around it keeps him out as well.. You feel safe knowing your guns will be home when you are..As far as fire protection ... a safe is only rated for so much time.... before the contents burn.. Make sure the safe is located in a fire safe location...Mine is at the front of the house next to the garage door.... It is bolted down.. If my house is on fire, the firemen will access thru my garage aluminum door first...And hopefully within a an hour ...My safe is first in line for protection. Time is of the essence... Add fire x drywall around it if you can.. Get insurance, possibly it will be reduced if you show you have a fire protected safe.. Take Pictures and store them in a second location.... I just put a 6 hr fire document safe inside my safe...But storing backups at another location is better..Don't store ammo in the safe...If you have very many many expensive guns you need more insurance.. I would suggest an underground safe.. so the fire burns over them..What ever you buy... take time to look inside remove the interior fire board, if necessary, to see what the sides are made of ... how thick is the steel.. You will understand the amount of limited security it provides. Additionally this will help you decide how to locate and install your safe..Without knowing what the fire rating is in hours, or the limited security, you can waste your money on the safe. Do the inexpensive little things to make it better..The best thing is know your kids and their friends are safe with your guns secured..




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