advice on cuttin barrel
#1
Posted 03 June 2009 - 09:12 PM
#2
Posted 03 June 2009 - 10:17 PM
#3
Posted 04 June 2009 - 05:40 PM
The barrel used to be a fixed, IC choked, smooth bore slug barrel........pretty much useless for doing anything but shooting rifled slugs. But now it's alot more versitile. I can still choke it light for shooting rifled slugs but I can also use a rifled choke for sabots, a super full for turkey, or a modified or full for buckshot.
Real tractors have two cylinders and hand clutches.
My rifle is mine, it isn't for sale, and I only give guns to people that I really like.
#4
Posted 05 June 2009 - 07:14 AM
#5
Posted 05 June 2009 - 08:18 AM
Time waits for no one--
treasure every moment you have.
#6
Posted 05 June 2009 - 08:44 AM
#7
Posted 08 June 2009 - 09:36 AM
#8
Posted 08 June 2009 - 03:39 PM
#9
Posted 08 June 2009 - 05:50 PM
Most trap and skeet shooters also have a different swing than they did 30 years ago. Back then most shooters started from the low gun position, nowadays they start with the gun already on their shoulder and pointed in the area they know the clay will be headed. Short, light guns are quick to put into action. When I am surprized by a hell diving pair of teal I can really tell the difference of how fast I can get on them with my 8.4 pound 28" barreled Remington 870 as compared to my 7.5 pound 26" barreled Browning Silver.......Most of the Trap, Skeet and Sporting Clays shooters are using longer barrels than they used 30 years ago because they swing smoother and you have a longer sighting plane to look over.....
Real tractors have two cylinders and hand clutches.
My rifle is mine, it isn't for sale, and I only give guns to people that I really like.
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