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sxshooter

Maintenance

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Since my 2008 truck turned 100K miles on a trip to northern Idaho a few weeks ago and I have trips to N. Dakota, S, Dakota, Oregon/Idaho, southern Arizona, and Kansas planned for this season, I figured it was time to do some fluid changes.

I just changed the engine oil, transfer case oil, and front axle gear oil in the truck today. Still have rear axle gear oil, trans fluid, and coolant to change. I may let my wife's friend that has a shop do the trans and coolant fluids.

On the list is also an air filter, plugs, belts, maybe hoses.

DSC_4557.jpg

Anyone else doing some preventative maintenance for the upcoming season?

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Got 2 new tires, changed front break pads and rotors, inspected rear break pads, new air filter, and oil change regularly

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I take my Silverado in every three thousand miles for an oil change.

My mechanic knows how I use my truck, so He has instructions to

check everything, I said I don't want to have to call him from the middle

of nowhere to tow my truck and trailer back home.

He takes good care of my vehicles.

Tom

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Tom,

That's pretty frequent on oil changes with todays fuel injected engines and oils. What're you doing with your truck? Towing?

i've used Mobil 1 in this and the last truck from the first change to the last, changing when the oil light came on around 4500 miles. . The previous truck went 235,000 unitil I sold it to a friend that hunts a few yrs back. I suppose it has 270-280 on it by now. This truck has a different schedule in the oil monitoring system and will go to about 7000-9000 miles before the light comes on, depending on how it's driven. That schedule is for mineral oil. Still I change it based on the light, regardless of the fact that I use synthetic. But I'm not towing.

I'm thinking of selling this one in a couple yrs and getting back to a 2500 like the last one. . I'm not a fan of the 1500, especially that 5 1/2 ft bed.

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Chuck, change the Fuel Filter too! Dirty FF will prematurely kill your Fuel Pump.

Also, Cabin air filter should be under the dash on the pass side, easy to change and often overlooked. Has nothing to do with how the truck runs, but can get dirty quick if you spend any time in the dirt. You will notice a 5hp gain in your A/C fan motor hahaha

I sold my 99 GMC 1500 Z71 back in Feb. It had 296k on it and still ran like a champ. Those 5.3l motors run forever as long as you take care of them. I have always used Mobil 1 in mine. Drove it to SD back when it had about 250k on it. Dad and I switched off and drove 31hrs straight through, truck never missed a beat.

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Dave,

You're right about the fuel filter. I lost a pump in my 99 2500 as I was driving thru Palm Springs. But this 08 doesn't have a replaceable filter. It's part of the in-tank pump and not intended to be serviced. Both the 99 and this 08 are 6.0 L engines, this 08 being a Vmax.

They deleted the cabin air filter in this model even this LTZ. I saw on a truck forum where they do a retrofit of the cabin filter.

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SS, I tow a trailer, and sometimes a boat,

I think oil changes are the cheapest, and best insurance you can get.

DD good suggestion on the A/C filter.

Tom

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Dave,

You're right about the fuel filter. I lost a pump in my 99 2500 as I was driving thru Palm Springs. But this 08 doesn't have a replaceable filter. It's part of the in-tank pump and not intended to be serviced. Both the 99 and this 08 are 6.0 L engines, this 08 being a Vmax.

They deleted the cabin air filter in this model even this LTZ. I saw on a truck forum where they do a retrofit of the cabin filter.

Didnt know they made that many changes. My newest truck is an 05 haha

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I change my oil every 3,000 miles and it is the best insurance for any motor. IF using a full syn oil then I would go longer----maybe 6-7,000 miles. I have 241,000 on my Saturn. I had 547,000miles on a 1979 Ford F150(carb not fuel injection) before it broke a camshaft while idling one day. They were hard miles as it was only used when carrying a load or towing or hunting. I had 300,000 on a pinto and finally the cam went flat. The 2300 motors were prone to doing that.

You might want to check tire wear and pressures. Checking the front end would not hurt. As someone else said check the brakes. On a GM lube the door hinges or replace the pins/bushings if worn out. That is a common problem.

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Diver,

Thanks for the reminder about the door hinges. GM door hinges are a wear point for sure. They insist on keeping that hinge design from 1950 something.

You are one long mileage owner for sure.

I put on new tires last Christmas and aligned it. Thinking about letting it go until next summer. My 99 2500 went thru 3 sets of tires, getting 60,000 plus miles on each set before I touched the alignment, and that was to align it after rebuilding the front end. This 1500 seems a bit less durable.

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I was looking for a AC Delco air filter and spark plugs yesterday and went to the Delco website and searched for dealers. I came up with ASAP Auto Parts on Paramount in Long Beach. It's primarily a jobber store, selling to shops, but they said they do retail as well. The guys behind the counter were friendly and gave me jobber prices on what I wanted, so I decided to go ahead and get the hoses, belts, and Dexcool from them.

If you're in the area, check out ASAP Auto Parts about a half mile south of the 91 fwy on Paramount.

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Today, I did the hardest of the fluid changes....the trans. I also put a Dorman pan on with a drainplug. The stock pans don't have drainplugs and it makes it a messy pain to drop a full pan. Should be much easier to drop the pan for the filter change next time. Had a cold one to celebrate that one. I had to use Dawn dishsoap to shower with.

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I go 10k-12k on my Duramax, Blackstone says I could go longer. I am waiting on parts to rebuiild the front end as my tires are cupping. I have 135k on it. So it is barely broken in.

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Today, I did the hardest of the fluid changes....the trans. I also put a Dorman pan on with a drainplug. The stock pans don't have drainplugs and it makes it a messy pain to drop a full pan. Should be much easier to drop the pan for the filter change next time. Had a cold one to celebrate that one. I had to use Dawn dishsoap to shower with.

If you know you are replacing the pan, just drill a hole in it to drain it. You'll get a little oil on your drill, but better than fumbling with a full pan. I have done this and then welded in a bung for a drain plug later.

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Dave,

It really wasn't all that bad. I left 4 bolts in and just backed them off a few turns, gave it a whack with a rubber mallet and it was loose. Then I lowered one end and stuck the end of a hose in it and used a small hand pump for oils to pump out the oil. The other little pain was the crossover pipe was so close that I couldn't get the pan off. I had to loosen the trans mount, put a block between the exhaust and the floorpan and jack the trans/xfer case to spring the crossover just another 1/4" to get the pan out.

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